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For New York Clothing Designer Robert James, Every Stitch Tells A Story

Catalin Zorzini — Sun, 17 Apr 2011 16:58:11 +0000

This post is made possible by Lexus Hybrid as a new part of the Fresh Perspectives series that focuses on featuring disrupting and innovative transmedia artists around the world. Every week, the program focuses on one of the six amazing artists involved in the Fresh Perspectives project. Interview by Geoff Carter

By Robert James

By Robert James is the brainchild of Robert James, a rural Ohio native whose menswear brand is founded on timeless handsome classics with a modern twist. After graduating from The Ohio State University and FIT, James pursued a design career in apparel design, with the purpose of honing his skills for his own brand. That day has arrived and James now works to bring his passion for men’s fashion to life by designing, a head to toe line of jackets, coats, jeans, trousers, and craft knitwear.

Screenprint: Escape

Jacket: The Sniper

Art on a sleeve

To hear him talk about what he does, you could be forgiven for thinking Robert James to be a young novelist. He’s got a searching mind, and he’s passionate about storytelling. But when you step into his studio/boutique on New York’s Lower East Side, it’s not books you’ll find lining the walls, it’s menswear — shirts, pants, jackets. And every one of his articles speaks volumes.

“I’m looking for small clues and little verbs and adverbs that help create a story within what I’m hoping to create as a modern garment,” says the 37-year-old designer. “A garment that is kind of true to today’s feeling.”

By Robert James — the name of James’ boutique and product line — is a brand based in trust: James trusts local suppliers to provide the materials he needs to make quality garments; he trusts in his ability to make those garments better than anyone else; and he trusts in a century of fashion statements — decades of accumulated verbs and adverbs — to help inspire the smartly handsome fashions of his line.

James employs Edwardian collars, hidden plackets and even polka dots to relate the entire epic saga of men’s style, from Wyatt Earp to Ringo Starr. A Robert James jacket looks equally at home in an upscale restaurant or against the green felt of a dive bar’s pool table. And thanks to James’ edit-as-you-go creative method, every last verb and adverb is easily read in his finished garments.

“Because I have a studio/boutique, I don’t work exactly like you’re supposed to,” James says. “If I get an idea for a garment and I’m in the middle of a season, I might make it now. I won’t make a million of them, but I’ll put it out, see if people like it. Just get a reaction on it.”

For Fresh Perspectives, we took advantage of James’ extemporaneous working style to get his artistic take on two themes, escape and challenge. In escape, James saw the journey he took from being “a mall kid” in rural Ohio to becoming one of the hottest young designers in Manhattan.

“To me, it wasn’t about escaping the people or the place, just the inability to do what I wanted,” James says of his design, a screen-print T-shirt depicting a bicycle rolling through a lush, seemingly limitless otherworld. “Screen-print and artwork is a place for me to escape and do something fun and interesting, with no rules.”

On the other hand, James sees challenge as waking up from the daydream and getting down to work.

“One of the more challenging things to do in apparel is a piece of outerwear, a jacket — especially in a time shortage,” he says. “The piece that we made was a prototype, but a lot of the ideas that we were able to capture have since been put into the final pattern. It’ll be in the shop in a couple of weeks.”

It’s not the first time James has created a garment on the fly. In fact, he seems to relish thinking and working fast.

“When we opened, we had six shirts, two pairs of pants and two jackets in stock,” he says. “When a customer came in for something and it wasn’t his size, I would just make it. We would just make it all, piece by piece, as fast as we could.”

In the end, however, it’s not about how Robert James sews his wearable stories together, but how they’re read out in the world.

“I know what’s going to look good on somebody,” says the designer, with modest but genuine confidence. “I like being that guy who kind of has that part on lockdown.”

Tips on Your Next Web Design from Tim Gunn and Project Runway

Shenee Howard — Thu, 07 Oct 2010 12:16:00 +0000

Shenee is a writer, designer, photographer and pop culture curator. She recently founded You’ll Look Great. She tweets. Mostly about writing, music and 90′s kids movies @sheneeh. She also blogs.

Project Runway isn’t just a reality show. Ok, so maybe it is but it isn’t just a reality show. Project Runway is a boutique reality of sorts, featuring people with actual skills. They are designers who are forced to be innovative under tight deadlines and with shoestring budgets. They often have to design for clients with the most specific and (often) ridiculous demands. Sound familiar? The simulated Project Runway life is very similar to the designer’s life and yes, there are lessons to be learned. Naturally.

Simple doesn’t have to be dull

On Project Runway, simple silhouettes and design can often be a chance for designers to send boring or sloppy clothes down the runway. The same goes for “simple and minimalist” design. If your design is going to be simple, make it visually stunning. Make sure your design is really structural and clean. Add some bold typography in there or an unexpected pop of color. Anyone who has ever attempted to copy the simple and minimalist style realizes that it’s really hard work. You have to keep the viewer visually engaged despite the minimalist design. Nowhere to hide.

Self-edit

If you have ever seen Project Runway, you know that this is Tim’s favorite thing to say. If it can be taken out, take it off. Web designers need to take this to the bank. More is not equivalent to better. We all fall in love with the illustrative bits we add in places that might not need it. The best websites can be both illustrative and full of flourish while still being clean. That gradient not serving a purpose? Get rid of it.

Get a Tim Gunn

Find a person who isn’t your best friend and will tell you what’s up. Bonus points if you find a person who you are almost afraid of but still deeply respect. .A mentor, of sorts. Your Tim Gunn will be completely honest with you about your work and give you helpful hints along the way As a designer myself, I have a really hard time with self-editing. Especially when it is a job I am really enjoying working on. Keep in contact with old advisers or internship mentors. Send a pleasant email to a designer or blogger you really admire and build a friendship. Find a person who can be a constant source of both encouragement and helpful criticism. This is especially useful for freelancers who only answer to their clients.

Be inspired, not influenced

On project runway, there is nothing worse than Michael Kors looking at a garment and deciding it is a rip-off of another designer’s work. It’s even worse for a designer to be deemed purely referential, without any real point of view. It’s a shot in the heart for a creative. The same applies for web designers but going about it is way more difficult. A lot of the times, a trend takes over the web world and you see it everywhere. It’s all good but it isn’t as great as the first time.

We should approach our design work in the same way. If you want to make an attempt at a trend, make sure it doesn’t look anything like what you have seen before. If you are really in love with the idea,take the time to brainstorm and figure out how to put your signature style on it.

Fit is everything

Just look at someone who is wearing a pair of jeans that don’t fit. It makes the person look heavier or more sloppy. Designers have done a lot of bad things to models on Project Runway.

The same goes for your website. Don’t make sloppy mistakes. Make sure your website has some sort of visual structure and stick with it. Write all your copy in Word before you start to make sure everything is spelled right. Details are everything and people will notice.

Be Passionate

The Project Runway kids are always a bunch of criers. It’s different then typical reality TV crying. No vodka. No bachelors with roses. When someone cries on Project Runway, they are crying because they love what they are doing so much and want this chance so bad that it makes them physically ill. They cry because they can’t creatively produce what they need to. A lot of the time they cry over the fact that they are poor and can’t afford to do this anymore if it doesn’t work out. Sure, sometimes they cry over stupid things too but for the most part they’ve got artist sickness.

As fellow creatives, we should feel the same way about our work. Just like a writer who writes because they can’t do anything else, design because you have to. If not, find something that would make you cry if you couldn’t do it anymore.

Stay innovative and fresh

This is all they talk about on Project Runway. Innovation. Fashion is all about it. I would venture to say that the design world should more readily adopt this point of view. A lot of us are also writers,musicians and artists but we forget to apply that some creative idea to our designs.

The difference between good designers and great designers is the ability to be innovative. If you line up a set of graphic designers, their portfolios will look more or less the same. We pay attention to the portfolio with ideas that transcend trends. It is easy to follow web standards and create perfectly competent websites but if you want to be great, you have to go further than competent.

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Tips on Your Next Web Design from Tim Gunn and Project Runway

Graphic Tees Redefined – 10 of the Most Stylish and Interesting Indie Tees of 2010

Kristin Marquet — Sun, 02 May 2010 22:23:36 +0000

This post is sponsored by Officers Club – mens tshirts and is written by Kristin Marquet – the owner of Marquet Media, a boutique marketing agency based in New York City. She is also a business columnist and has written for numerous business, celebrity and fashion magazines such as Small Business CEO Magazine, The Insider News and StyleCaster.com

Since more people are working from home these days, casual wear – the graphic tee specifically – has become an American staple wardrobe item. The tees around today are so versatile, diverse and intense that I decided to scour the web for the best graphic designs and share them with you. These designs range from simple, classic, and clean to intricately complex forms of self-expression. Let us know your thoughts on your favorites.

Clean and Classic tees

This Suspicion tee from NoPooh has a classic 1940’s noir inspired design. It’s a fashionable fit tee, so it could be worn any where. Even though the design is basic, I appreciate the fluidity of the lines and overall uniqueness. When I saw this Care design in nopooh’s line, I instantly fell in love. It’s a tribute to corporate insincerity, making it a one of a kind. My take is – Thank you for 25 years of service, but we are taking your pension as part of our own golden parachute. I know the designers of this company. They believe less is more and create designs for the independent thinker.

Vintage and Retro Tees

For the edgier woman, I found this Today, tomorrow tee by Duvnic an interesting must have for this year. I like the washed out and faded brown color. I’d pair this sexy tank with a pair of leggings and over the knee boots. The guy who wants to add detail to his wardrobe but doesn’t want to go overboard, this Winged Crest tee is a perfectly clean design. Even though this gray tee is more subtle than most of the other shirts in the collection, it’s still going to add style and self-expression.

Funny Graphic Tees

Funny graphic tees are necessary for any casual wardrobe. BlankGeneration has the best selection of funny tees this year. Here are two favorite picks of the year. I don’t know what is so original and innovative about this pink It’s all about me, me, me t-shirt, but I just fell in love when I saw it. The men’s Strangers with Benefits tee stuck out to me because it reminds me of every guy that I’ve dated. But more importantly, the saying is much more imaginative than Friend with Benefits. This is a season definite.

Cute Graphic tees

Most cute t-shirts have campy and corny sayings or images on them. In fact, cute t-shirts with a unique flair are hard to find, but this Bunny design from RedBubble is adorable. The greatest thing about this shirt is that it’s available in 22 different colors. This Shiv tee is so cute that anyone could wear it – my niece, nephew, boyfriend, or father.

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Graphic Tees Redefined – 10 of the Most Stylish and Interesting Indie Tees of 2010

Printspiration Giveaway – IdN, T-World & Wooden Toy Magazines

Catalin Zorzini — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:04:00 +0000

After the huge success of the IdN subscription giveaway organized with our friends from Magnation, we both decided to extend our collaboration! So meet Printspiration Giveaway, an ongoing effort to inspire and reward our creative readers with the latest and greatest inspirational magazines.

Mag Nation

Catch this – Mag Nation is the world’s first and only magazine superstore. With over 4,000 magazine titles, they have the largest range of magazines in the galaxy. However, The Land of Mags is devoted to magazines and the intersection of design, urban and visual fashion and culture.

IdN – the self-promotion issue

I must tell you this issue is huge! The biggest IdN feature to date, with 25 artists showcasing their most original and personal self-promotional work, designed simply to sell themselves. Isn’t that all about? This is a must-have for y’all designers out there who want to sell your talent with style :-D

Must read articles: Have special effects finally come of age?, A healthy obsession with ornament, Let there be light! (amazing lighting projects from innovative theatre, concert and fashion-show designers), Chairman of the boards (on the ephemeral art of making a skateboard look good). The DVD is filled with more than 100 minutes of cool interviews, short movies and innovative video works. Subscribe here or browse for other Architecture & Design titles.

T-World

Self-dubbed The Journal of T-shirt Culture, T-World is a uber cool mag focused on the streetwear industry. In this issue they argue that T-shirts and music have a long relationship together and – guess what – they even have proofs!

Must read articles: Conversation starters, Shepard Fairey, Obsession: Tattoos, $ales, Warriors of radness, a fab feature story about 123klan and their most sexy photo shoot up to date – the Zappa inspired Fembot In A Wet T-shirt. Subscribe here or find other Urban & Street titles.

Wooden Toy

Wooden Toy is an award winning culture and art publication with a huge cult following. Appealing to street and design fiends alike, they present youth culture and art as a lifestyle that cannot be separated from a love of brilliant photography, street art, illustration and some of the tightest graphic design you’ve ever seen printed on – drum rolls – uncoated paper. Definitely a must have for any eye candy collector!

Must read articles: Natchos and dynamite, Introducing Adam Elliot (the animator behind Mary & Max), Cat Rabbit, amazing feature story on Gary Taxali, brilliant illustrations from Mash Design, a nice interview with Caleb Beyers about hand made wood dolls and a lot more. Subscribe here or browse for other Graphic Design titles.

The Giveaway

Enter to win one of these three amazing titles from Inspired Mag & Magnation:

tell us in the comments what magazine would you like to receive and why you deserve it
tweet this message: Win IdN, T-World & Wooden Toy magazines from @mag_nation and @inspiredmag http://su.pr/7M2oEx RT to join!

The Winners

Alexy – IdN
Michelle – T-World
Andy Spock – Wooden Toy

Congrats guys, you’ll receive an email soon!

This is a post from Inspired Magazine. If you like it, you may want to subscribe to our RSS full feed to be updated on every article we're publishing. Also, it's highly recommended to follow us on Twitter!

Printspiration Giveaway – IdN, T-World & Wooden Toy Magazines

20 Hype Street Snap Blogs for Fashion & Design Inspiration

Catalin Zorzini — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 12:12:40 +0000

This post is sponsored by Officers Club - mens clothes

Yeah, the Sartorialist thing grew an entire niche, and a really cool one as well! Here are the most glamorous street fashion blogs, capturing on camera the coolest outfits and the most eccentric fashionistas around the world.

Tokyo Fashion

Tokyo Fashion is owned by a group of Japanese and foreign people who live in Tokyo and have an interest in fashion & photography. The site features Japanese fashion news, event coverage, trend info, and, of course – street fashion snaps from around Tokyo.

This is a post from Inspired Magazine. If you like it, you may want to subscribe to our RSS full feed to be updated on every article we're publishing. Also, it's highly recommended to follow us on Twitter!

20 Hype Street Snap Blogs for Fashion & Design Inspiration